Preparing roast turkey for the family is frantic enough. But what’s it like for a chef in a top restaurant, preparing multiple turkeys, other choices including veggie roasts, and keeping it all thoroughly delectable?
Chefs from some of the county’s top restaurants took time out from their preparations to share a few secrets – all stressing the importance of preparing before the big day.
This Christmas will be the first for Jake Lawrence as head chef at Seckford Hall Hotel and Spa near Woodbridge, after arriving there in January. A host of culinary events are planned at the hotel and its acclaimed 1530 restaurant, holder of two AA rosettes.
‘There are lots of things occurring this Christmas – it will be amazing,’ Jake said. “We’re here to look after our guests and make it special.’ Seckford Hall is offering festive three-night breaks, which are already sold out with a waiting list, and Jake and his team will also be serving Christmas Day five-course lunches.
The tempting sample menu on their website includes spiced smoked duck, cheddar and leek souffle, trio of salmon and trio of baby beetroot, as well as the centrepiece roasted local turkey or veggie option of mushroom and chestnut wellington, followed by homemade Christmas pudding or baked vanilla cheesecake.
Festive lunches and afternoon teas are also offered all through December. Then there’s the New Year’s Eve gala dinner, not forgetting three-night ‘Twixmas’ breaks between Christmas and New Year.
‘I will be working on Christmas Day, doing a split day with other senior staff so we can all spend part of the day at home,’ Jake said. He added that he plans to work for three out of the five main days of the season.
He won’t be cooking the Christmas dinner at home this year. ‘My partner is a full-time mum and will be doing the catering. I might bring a Christmas pudding home,’ he said. Jake’s partner, Ashleigh, is a trained pastry chef and has set up her own celebration cakes business.
‘Our little boy, Isaac, will be 18 months old, so this will be his first proper Christmas,’ Jake said. “I love Christmas – I was brought up by my mum with roast turkey on the day that was then turned into turkey curry and used up. It was a proper family Christmas and I want to try to do the same with my young family.’
Jake has plenty of experience of creating magical festive menus at his previous restaurants. He spent four-and-a-half years as head chef at The Crown and Castle in Orford and before that was at The Crown in Stoke by Nayland, after working in hospitality from the age of 17.
Jake’s top tip for anyone cooking Christmas dinner at home is to prepare well. ‘Anything you can do in advance will help, such as brining your turkey in salt water,” he said. “You don’t have to do everything on the day – you can do a lot of preparation in advance and it means much less stress.’
• Visit seckford.co.uk
Jordan Ryan is head chef at The Weeping Willow in Barrow, near Bury St Edmunds, a 16th-century pub which is part of the Chestnut Group’s collection. He said: “I’ll be working both Christmas and New Year’s Eve this year, but on Boxing Day I’ll spend time with my family. Christmas Day will be full-on in the Weeping Willow kitchen with a packed pub and restaurant.
‘Our Christmas menu is five courses with plenty of choice, which I’m really excited about. New Year’s Eve is filling up fast. Plus, we have some fun experiences coming up: wreath-making, calligraphy workshops, and even a murder mystery supper, which is a first for us.’
Jordan said that in the lead-up to the big day the team is serving up some delicious festive dishes, giving a twist to the classics, like a potato terrine and other new creations. There’s a great line-up of festive desserts, too, in addition to Christmas pudding.
His top tip for those making Christmas dinner at home is: ‘Get your prep done a day or two before, rather than rushing around on Christmas morning and missing out on the fun. Cut your potatoes, peel your carrots, and even cook your potatoes or boil them off so they’re ready in the fridge to roast the following day. Oh, and don’t overcook the turkey!’
Although he will be working this year, he said: ‘When at home on Christmas Day I handle the cooking, taking it in turns with my brother, who’s also a chef. This year I’ll spend quality time with my family when I get home and on Boxing Day. I don’t feel like I’m missing out, though, because my kitchen team is like an extended family. Everyone’s typically in great spirits, which adds to the festive atmosphere.’
Asked what his perfect Christmas dinner would be, he joked: ‘I’d love it to be pizza but I don’t think the rest of my family would agree. So, it has to be a roast dinner with all the trimmings: stuffing, pigs in blankets (my favourites), plus Brussels sprouts with pancetta, and a good thick gravy. Ideally, someone else is cooking it. I am happiest when I am not making my own dinner.’
Jordan started out as a kitchen porter ten years ago and has worked his way up. He said: ‘This last year has been huge for me, stepping into the head chef role. It’s been a great challenge, and I honestly see myself doing this long-term. I love food, I love connecting with people. I love it when people take photos of the food or come up to the pass to say they enjoyed it - that’s the best feeling.’
• Visit theweepingwillow.co.uk
The new executive chef at The Bildeston Crown, Greig Young, is looking forward to Christmas. Greig has curated a festive menu, crafted with the help of the gardeners at Nedging Hall Estate, which recently took over the award-winning pub.
This menu will be served from December 1-24 alongside seasonal à la carte options. It includes starters such as treacle cured salmon, celeriac and apple soup, pork, apricot and pistachio terrine, and partridge vol au vent. Main course options include not just roast turkey but slow-cooked short rib, cod with herb risotto, and Jerusalem artichoke.
There’s also plenty of choice on the Christmas Day menu. Starter options include spiced venison carpaccio, pork belly with pan-seared scallop and wild mushroom ravioli. Roast turkey is once again in pride of place, with other options including Beef Wellington, roasted halibut and salt baked celeriac pithivier. Special events include a festive wreath-making event and, on New Year’s Eve, there will be a gourmet evening with live music from Anneka Rand.
Greig shared his top tips for cooking Christmas dinner at home. ‘Preparation is key. I do prepare all the vegetables the night before. Pre-boil potatoes, parsnips, carrots and free up oven space.’
He will be spending the big day at home with family this year. He said: ‘I have a two-year-old so it will be fairly chaotic but masses of fun. I’m very much a traditionalist when it comes to Christmas. Think locally reared turkey, pigs in blankets and all the trimmings. I make a bread sauce with croissants – it’s pretty special.’
A seasoned chef, Greig has worked in the culinary industry for nearly 20 years, after starting at 15. Having trained in Scotland, he travelled to the other side of the globe to work in Australia and New Zealand, but has now been settled in Suffolk for ten years.
Greig commented on the ‘estate-to-plate' ethos of The Crown, admiring the team’s passion for ethical dining. ‘It is music to my ears. To have the kitchen garden at Nedging Hall to pick seasonal produce from inspires us chefs and keeps menus fresh, which is exactly what people want,’ he said.
• Visit thebildestoncrown.com
Blue Fig in Bury St Edmunds is the town’s latest destination for Mediterranean-inspired small plates, and has also launched a new Sunday roast menu. Head chef Rob Reynolds said: ‘This Christmas, we’ll be sticking to our trusted offerings, focusing on seasonal and locally-sourced ingredients whenever possible to keep things fresh and festive. So, if you fancy popping in to see us, we can't wait to see you for a tipple and some festive cheer.’
Rob said: ‘For anyone looking for a top tip to elevate their Christmas dinner, the trickiest part is often getting the turkey just right. To make this easier and achieve the best flavour, I recommend starting the prep a few days in advance. Brining the turkey beforehand makes a world of difference, ensuring it stays juicy, flavourful, and perfectly seasoned.’
He added: ‘On Christmas Day, it’s all about family. I’ll be spending the day with my wife and kids, enjoying the holiday magic with plenty of food, drink, and quality time together.
‘For me, the perfect Christmas dinner revolves around great roast potatoes - crispy on the outside, fluffy on the inside - and a generous serving of Brussels sprouts. Paired with a good bottle of wine, this combination makes the meal feel extra special and festive.
‘After Christmas, I’ll be taking a well-deserved break before we welcome in the New Year at Blue Fig - a chance to relax, recharge, and reflect on the year gone by. Here’s to a holiday filled with delicious food, joyful family moments, and time to rest and renew. Cheers!’
• Visit bluefigrestaurants.com
This article appears in this month's Suffolk magazine. For more great Suffolk food and drink content, subscribe at https://www.greatbritishlife.co.uk/subscribe/suffolk/
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