Ninety years ago, Mr RC Notcutt gave Kyson Hill in Woodbridge to the National Trust. It was the trust's first Suffolk property, 1.6 hectares (4 acres) with wonderful views of mudflats, quiet hills and woods to the east, and of the River Deben winding its way towards the sea.
It's become a favourite spot for locals and visitors alike, where you can observe the river's wildlife and soak up the historic significance of this beautiful location.
The Deben rises just west of Debenham, a trickle that becomes a stream, making its way through the village where it's forded twice. It flows roughly north to south for 20 miles, through Woodbridge, turning into a tidal estuary before entering the North Sea at Felixstowe Ferry.
The importance of the Deben to Suffolk and its place in the nation's history can't be overestimated. It was once a watery highway connecting the county to the continent and the world beyond.
This wasn't always benign; at one time the Deben was a main thoroughfare for Saxon invasion of the Anglia region, although that turned out OK. On the north bank, on a high plateau overlooking Woodbridge is the Sutton Hoo burial site, close to what is thought to be a key centre of Anglo Saxon administration.
The Romans also used the river to import men and arms, and export slaves and produce, and from the Middle Ages, it was a centre for boatbuilding, rope-making and sail-making. Edward III and Sir Francis Drake had fighting ships built in Woodbridge; Nelson had ships built on the banks of the Deben, and local yards supplied boats to the Royal Navy during the Second World War.
One fascinating piece of history is the now disappeared medieval port of Goseford. Unlike conventional ports, it wasn't a single entity but was made up of several small places, connected by deep water channels, in an area from the mouth of the river up to Kirton Creek. Whole fleets of ships could shelter and be loaded here.
Before the Middle Ages the river looked quite different; but between the 1300s and the 1600s the river was gradually walled, creating the channel we have today. Goods and people were transported by water, not by road, and ferries took landowners and working people from shore to shore, crossing at places such as Ufford, Wilford, Seckford and Carlford. The landowner rented out the ferry rights, in return for him and his staff receiving free passage, and the ferryman was often provided with a house.
So what of Kyson Hill and Kyson Point? Bounded by Martlesham Creek on the southern side, it's almost opposite the old farm quay of Methersgate from where Thames barges took hay, corn and fodder to London and brought back horse muck to be spread on the land.
Not much seems to be known about it beyond its settlement in the early Middle Saxon era (601 AD to 700 AD) by early kings of East Anglia, opposite the Sutton Hoo burial site. Now it's managed by the National Trust and is part of the Deben estuary Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) covering the river and its banks for 12 km (7.5 miles) from the mouth at Felixstowe to Woodbridge.
It's important for overwintering waders and wildfowl, and for its diverse saltmarshes; redshanks and nationally significant numbers of dark-bellied Brent geese, shelducks, avocets and black-tailed godwits winter here. There are regular sitings of common seals, and the salt marsh and intertidal mud-flats have the widest range of salt marsh flora in Suffolk.
Kyson Point is at the point in the river where it begins to narrow and meander towards Woodbridge quay. Sailors know part as Troublesome Reach, but for us landlubbers it's anything but. It's a lovely peaceful spot along an easy circular walk. I've done it many times and I never tire of it.
This route, suggested by the National Trust, starts in Woodbridge near the railway station and takes you along the river, threading your way through a jumble of boats, out towards marshes and mudflats. During the summer, you should see sedge and reed warblers as well as common terns.
Keep an eye on the tide; at high tide part of the route might be inaccessible, so take the alternative signposted route.
THE WALK
1. Facing the railway station, cross over the footbridge.
2. Follow the walkway round to your right with the river on your left. Carry on past the Woodbridge Cruising Club and Deben Rowing Club on your right.
3. Keep straight along the path, passing toilets down a slipway on your right, and carry along past the Tea Hut Café (a lovely place to stop) in the small park, with Deben Yacht Club on your left beside the river.
4. With clubhouses, boatyards and cafés behind you, follow the tarmac footpath along the riverbank. At the end of the path, follow the path to the left. YOu'll see a public footpath sign. Take the left path down an incline, passing the Kyson House driveway on your right. At high tide, this route might be inaccessible. Follow the small green metal sign on the left at ground level for the alternative route.
5. Turn right and look for a three-way footpath sign. Keep to the left up the hill until you reach the National Trust sign and a bench on your right. This is the top of Kyson Hill; enter the site for some terrific views over the river estuary.
6. Retrace your steps to the three-way footpath sign, head down to the beach and turn right.
7. Walk along the estuary shore until you come to the Kyson Point sign by a big fallen log. Kyson Point is private property but you can see the brown shed and small yachts out of the water. Keep right at wooden railings and follow the path to Martlesham Creek and then riverside path.
8. Reaching the end of creek, turn right and walk around the sewage works to Sandy Lane. Turn right under the railway bridge and walk uphill for about 700yds. At the top, turn right onto Broom Heath. When the road bends round to the right, turn left past a gate leading to Porter's Wood. Stay on the path on the outside of the woods (on your right) to return to Sandy Lane.
9. Turn right and right again. When you reach the main road cross over; after 50yds go up the steps on the far side to a footpath. Keep straight ahead to the end of the footpath and cross the road to Portland Crescent.
10. Keep straight ahead, dropping down the hill and climbing up the other side. Continue along Fen Walk with cemeteries on either side. Reaching a junction of paths, fork left down a grassy slope with views of the church tower ahead. Keep straight ahead and climb the steps to Seckford Street.
11. Turn right to reach Market Hill. An alleyway on your right leads to the church of St Mary the Virgin. Turn left through the churchyard onto Church Street, emerging at a school (site of the old abbey). Walk down Church Street and cross over The Thoroughfare, a pedestrian street on the left. Continue down Quay Street, then cross over to reach the station yard, car park and Whistlestop Café.
If you have time... nearby Woodbridge Tide Mill is well worth a visit. The last working tide mill in the UK, it has been lovingly restored and welcomes visitors. Check the website to see which days the wheels are turning. woodbridgetidemill.org.uk
COMPASS POINTS
Distance: 4miles/6.4 km
Duration: up to 2 hours
Access: footpaths, river bank, tracks beach, pavements. Parts not suitable for wheelchairs and buggies.
Dog friendly.
Start: Woodbridge railway station Station Road, Woodbridge, IP12 4AU
Parking: Big car park at the station.
Map: OS Explorer 212 Woodbridge and Saxmundham
Ts & Ps: Public toilets in station car park and Woodbridge town centre; numerous cafes, teashops pubs and restaurants in town and at the quay.
This walk first appeared in Suffolk magazine. To subscribe, visit www.greatbritishlife.co.uk/subscribe/suffolk/
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