Suffolk mushy peas set to fuel D-Day celebrations in June

Glenn Buckingham, who farms the Helmingham Estate, near Debenham, has been growing marrowfat peas for three years now.

This week his 70 tonne crop of marrowfat peas headed off to Long Sutton in Lincolnshire to be processed.

Marrowfat peas are used to make mushy peas - the key accompaniment to a classic fish and chips dish.

This year should be a high point for the British staple - as it will be used in celebratory meals up and down the country.

Those organising the celebrations to mark the 80th anniversary of the D-Day landings on June 6 are encouraging people to get involved by serving up fish and chips with mushy peas - and light beacons in the evening.

With the country subject to strict food rationing during the conflict, good meals were hard to come by - but fish and chips with mushy peas was considered a dish that was highly important for war morale.

So much so that war-time prime minister Winston Churchill referred to fish and chips as "The Good Companions" - and fish, unlike other proteins such as meat, cheese and egg, wasn't rationed.

When on active service, British troops even used the dish to distinguish friend from foe. If one shouted out 'fish', a friendly soldier would know to respond 'chips'.

However, the seas around Britain were so dangerous that fishing was challenging - which meant that fish became very costly during the war.

However, because they were cheap, mushy peas were used to bulk out war-time meals.

Christine Bish of Country Women Countrywide - which provided the menu for this year's D-Day celebrations - said their brief was create a "simple readily accessible menu to include quintessentially British food".

"During World War 2, the government of the day, led of course by Winston Churchill, was committed to safeguarding the accessibility of fish and chips because the nation needed it to maintain spirits," explained Ms Bish.

But for many, fish was scarce and unaffordable, she added.

"Even if a family could afford fish and chips it was likely that a single portion would be shared between parents and a number of children.

"It was even more likely that a portion or two of much cheaper mushy peas would be purchased to stretch the meal further."

Organisers were also inspired by the single recipient of the Victoria Cross from the day of the landings.

Company Sergeant Major Stanley Hollis of the 6th Battalion of the Green Howards was rewarded for his bravery after he took two enemy pillboxes and a field gun and crew after landing on Gold Beach. He also captured 30 Germans single-handedly.

The 31-year-old previously worked in the family's fish and chip shop in Robin Hood's Bay, Yorkshire.

Pageantmaster Bruno Peek is involved in organising national celebrations to mark the D-Day anniversary.

As a young child, he was abandoned at a police station in King's Lynn and was sent to live in a children's home in Lowestoft before moving to Gorleston, Great Yarmouth.

From humble beginnings he has since gone on to play an important role in organising key national events, such as co-ordinating the late Queen's Golden and Diamond Jubilees and her 90th birthday.

He began preparing for the D -Day event more than a year ago, he said, and wanted to recognise those who supported the war effort at home - such as farmers and fishermen - as well as those who landed on the beaches.

"It must have been a very difficult time for them - both fishermen and farmers," he said. "The role that the farmers and fishermen played kept the nation in food - not knowing if their loved ones would return. This is one of the reasons I'm very passionate about it."

Glenn - who is set to become chairman of Suffolk National Farmers' Union (NFU) next month - hoped his crop might play a small role in the anniversary celebrations.

It was the third year he has grown marrowfat peas, having decided to try out the crop to replace oilseed rape in his rotations.

Apart from a very small infestation of pea moth in the crop for which £6 was deducted, he has made £500/t from the crop this year.

He grew it without insecticide, so is pleased that infestations are minimal - but admitted this year's yield was disappointing. However, given that last year was unseasonably cold and wet he is feeling philosophical.

He hopes at least some of crop will end up on plates on June 6. In his home village of Framsden they will be lighting the village beacon to coincide with the national celebrations, he said.

"I'm sure there'll be mushy peas," he added.

Around 156,000 Allied troops landed in Normandy by sea and air on D-Day, so organisers are hoping that a total of least 156,000 portions of fish and chips and mushy peas will be consumed on  June 6.