Travel review of Hintlesham Hall hotel in Suffolk 2023

The only way to arrive at Hintlesham Hall is under the cloak of darkness. It is then that the building can truly demonstrate her beauty – the pink façade illuminated, driveway dazzled by twisted, ancient fairylit trees, fountains bubbling beneath the stars. 

Originally a hall house, built in the late 1400s, it was Robert Carrier who transformed the property into a hotel five decades ago. His legacy continues in the renaming of the hotel restaurant, Carrier’s, where the kitchen has often, inarguably, been noted as one of the finest in the region. In the 90s and early noughties it was THE place to nab a cheffing job. Then you knew you’d made it! 

Inside, while it’s fair to say some of the public areas could do with a little TLC in the way of touching up paintwork, nothing can detract from the magnificence of the hall – where you can ostensibly pretend you’re in the midst of a period novel.  

Take afternoon tea fireside in one of the lounges. A drink on one of the finely upholstered chairs in the bar. Do a turn in your best threads on the main staircase with its intricately carved posts. 

One of my favourite parts of the hall is the baby blue panelled Long Gallery on the upper floor, which is simply gorgeous on a sunny day. 

Almost beside it is Rosette, our suite for the night, overlooking the gardens, where the kitchen grows several of the items on the restaurant menu. 

Rosette is palatial in size, yet warm and inviting. Every corner is immaculately decorated, the solid furniture polished to a mirror finish, and the giant postered bed inviting with its soft pillows and plump duvet. 

Your every wish is included here. A large telly. Bottles of water. Hairdryer. Iron and board. A coffee maker with (very important) instructions on how to use it. A grand selection of Newby teas. Even parcels of shortbread. There’s no fridge (that we found) but it would be nice to have the option of fresh milk in the room – perhaps in a little Thermos as I’ve had at other spots. 

READ MORE: 'Amazing' - we review The Swan at Southwold

In the bathroom robes are available on request, and there are Temple Spa toiletries, which are divine, but would have ticked more boxes if they’d come in larger, more eco-friendly bottles. 

I couldn’t work out how to use the shower, so can’t speak on the water pressure, but the slipper bath was the perfect size for this smaller-than-average traveller. It was nice to be able to sit up without floating away! 

It’d been a while since I’d eaten at Hintlesham Hall. Back then Alan Ford was at the stoves, and we were forced to eat in the main salon, which rattled under the weight of silence. It is a huge space to fill – especially mid-week. 

So I was delighted the Parlour had been laid out for dinner. The wood panelled, fire-lit room a cosier, more inviting option for a cool February night. 

We started with drinks in the bar, where the list (of cocktails, mocktails, spirits and wines) is truly extensive and includes a few local nods too. My friend plumped for a decently made Negroni, and as I’m currently ‘off the sauce’ I was more than happy with a garnished glass of booze-free Tanqueray gin and elderflower tonic. 

There was time to peruse the menus here, including (to the delight of my vegetarian companion) a separate veggie and vegan section. 

I was so overwhelmed by choice I asked our server to pick for me – everything sounded divine.  

Ticket delivered to the chefs, we were led to the dining room which was almost full and ringing with the sound of chatter – nice to hear considering the formality of dining at Hintlesham Hall, where the glasses really do sparkle, and table linens are pressed with military precision. 

This is the kind of place where they pull out your chair, pop your napkin on your lap, and have a special little sweep to clear the debris from the table between courses (always on my side). 

READ MORE: A spa break with a historic twist

Dinner begins with a generous selection of house-made breads and a trio of delicious flavoured butters, as well as an amuse bouche (smoked salmon and whipped cream cheese on our visit). 

While the vegetarian options (particularly a great celeriac and wild mushroom risotto) hit the spot, it was my own dishes which shone, showing an enormous amount of work and a deep understanding of flavour – so delicious I can forgive the chichi circa 90s fine dining presentation. 

Golden scallops arrived with a deeply savoury, bruise-coloured risotto of squid ink, with the kitchen garden’s pickled artichokes and a dusting of roe powder. 

Brined, buttery beef fillet teased with a hint of thyme, cut beautifully, and was expertly paired with baby vegetables, bolshy, sticky braised oxtail, a sliver of crisp potato, pips of truffle mash, and fresh truffle shavings, all bound together with a glossy sauce.

Particularly alluring was the milk chocolate and praline mousse – their take on the Ambassador’s favourite. Gelatine is a tricky thing to judge. It’s all too easy to make ‘boingy’ desserts. But this was perfection. A melt-in-the-mouth creation, paired with a cinnamon panna cotta flower, and the silkiest earl grey ice cream. A dessert I won’t forget in a hurry. 

Coffee was taken back in the bar, with a plate of truffles. Who could say no to that? 

The only room for improvement, I felt, came in the morning at breakfast, which I found a bit lacklustre considering the quality of dinner the night before. 

There were, of course, positives. Staff are friendly and warm. It was great to see fresh, proper apple juice on the breakfast table. Toast was thick cut, staying warm for a good while. And the pastries were tasty. We also thought the coffee was delicious. Very flavoursome and rich. 

I wasn’t so enamoured by the cured meats and cheese from the continental selection, which were quite underwhelming – I'd take them off the menu, to be honest. As for the cooked breakfast. The sausage was fantastic - really peppery and meaty – a kick to get you started in the morning. And the bacon had a crunch to its fatty rind. But the tomato was solid, mushrooms unseasoned, and black pudding tough. The chefs need to talk to East Anglia’s Fruitpig. Makers of the best black and white pudding in the region. 

Would I stay again? Yes. Hintlesham Hall is a special place indeed. The onsite spa (where I’ve had treatments before) is wonderful, afternoon tea is known to be excellent. And the evening dining experience, from food to service is exemplary. That’s before we even get to how being in the palatial hall makes you feel. With a few tweaks to breakfast, it could be up there as one of my favourite spots for a staycation in Suffolk. 

Find out more at hintleshamhall.co.uk