James Carn opens new restaurant, Lark, in Bury St Edmunds

James Carn and wife Sophia (along with their four children, including a 14-year-old chief-washer-upper) will welcome diners to Lark on Angel Hill from Saturday, in premises that previously housed The Flower Hut. 

“For chefs, it is the dream isn’t it? From day one you want a restaurant,” says James, who most recently left Suffolk’s only Michelin starred restaurant Pea Porridge, where he’d worked on and off for five years. Prior to that he was sous chef at Tuddenham Mill, with the talented chef having a keen following locally. 

“I was fortunate enough to work with Justin,” he adds about his time at Pea Porridge. “I’ve seen first-hand someone who has achieved my dream. He’s always been a bit of a mentor or role model in that regard. And there’s the fact he was the same age as me when he first opened. It’s a bit mad...but we think it’s the right place and the right moment. We don’t have a big backer behind us. It’s a gamble in difficult times, but I think we’re young enough to take that risk now.” 

Sophia’s background is in teaching – specifically business studies. She left West Suffolk College a short while ago after the best part of a decade, buts says she and James will continue to keep links with the college. “It’s been part of our path throughout,” she says. “We’ve got good contacts there. James has done lots of things at the college, helping young chefs with things like A Passion to Inspire. And he has volunteered quite a few times in the culinary arts department. It’s important to us to work with them.” 

Lark takes its name from the town’s river, which James and Sophia walk alongside every day from their home to reach the restaurant. And it’s been all hands to the deck since they took on the keys to the property. 

“The history of the building,” says Sophia, “is it used to be a bus shelter. That’s originally what it was built as. Then it was used for different purposes including as a police station at one point. From the front it appears quite small, but there’s an extension which is what made it perfect for us in terms of renovating the kitchen at the back.”  

Lark seats just 23, making it a rather intimate experience. “It’s an interesting place and we just looked at it and fell in love with it,” adds James. “Logistically it’s a nightmare because of the size, but it’s fun. Hopefully we’ll be able to create a nice buzzy atmosphere.” 

They both admit they had no idea how much work would be involved – particularly building in a restaurant spec kitchen – but they’re proud of what they’ve achieved. A simple, minimalistic, but warm space where what’s on the table will be the focal point. 

“The floor is concrete and the décor is minimalistic,” says James. “Any furniture and extra bits would make it feel too cramped!” 

And now for the best bit. The food. At surely what is one of the most-anticipated openings in the town for a long time. James is moving away from static a la carte and tasting menus, instead offering an evolving, relaxed, sharing plate set-up, where food is ordered for the table for everyone to get stuck into.  

“It’s kind of inspired by our favourite restaurant, The Fish Kitchen in Cornwall by Nathan Outlaw. We’ve got that same concept of small plates of really exciting British ingredients. There will be a set menu too, but it won’t be a tasting menu. 

“We’ll have around 16 items on there – plenty of choice,” he adds “It’s my favourite way to eat, and I think people really enjoy eating like that now. There are a lot of fantastic restaurants already in Bury and we wanted to do something different. 

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Prompted for a preview of what’s on offer, James lists off razor clams with café de Paris butter, hand-rolled pasta with locally foraged wild mushrooms, and homemade charcuterie– from nduja to coppa ham - made with meat from Suffolk pigs. 

Fish will be locally caught where possible. And game sourced from Lavenham Butchers.  

As for puds? Expect trifles for two, and what James calls “really nice proper puddings”, citing pavlovas as a personal decadence. 

The team at Vino Gusto are building the wine list – with James’ friend Yann Aubourg heading up front of house. “He’s really passionate, and brilliant front of house. He’s just infectious to be around. The drinks offering will be fantastic and it’s perfect for us to work alongside someone who shares our passion and is behind what we want to achieve.” 

Post dinner, again, the couple are keen to offer something a bit different, and have worked with Rob from Butterworth & Son to put a V60 'drip coffee’ on the menu rather than a fancy list of frothy cappuccinos and lattes. “I don’t like those after a big meal,” James adds. 

“We’re really excited to finally be looking at all the elements of the restaurant and what’s going to be offered now we’re getting to the end of project,” says Sophia. 

“Working together has been as aspiration of ours for a long time and to finally see it come together is surreal...and nerve-wracking. We want people to come on the journey with us.” 

Lark will be open four days a week, from 12noon to 2.30pm Wednesday to Saturday for lunch, and from 6-9pm for dinner. larkrestaurant.co.uk