Try White House Farm's barn dining experience in Glemham

Sunshine glints from the windows of the off-grid farmhouse building, which is cloaked in a tangle of climbing plants. The fields and foliage of the trees appear bronzed. 

A wisp of smoke tickles my nose as I’m led by the site’s business development manager Jane Hall to quite possibly one of the most unique dining spaces in the entire country. 

Set within the heart of Jason Gathorne-Hardy's rustic, unstuffy collection of art spaces (Galloper Sands gallery) is the most extraordinary scene – one that sings of harvest, celebration, sharing and simple country pleasures – one that could almost be plucked from a Constable painting. I half expect a ceilidh to break out. 

While an open fire pit smoulders, releasing savoury plumes of oak, there’s little but birdsong to break the silence here, in this space, with its long hand-carved tables crafted with wood from the farm, hay bale and fleece seating, garlands of dried wild flowers and grasses, and humble arrangements of gourds and quince. 

It is a simple, but delicious proposition for lunch (served on gallery launch days with a view to open more frequently from spring 2023). Roll up, enjoy the art, the wild setting, and for around £10 to £15 a help-yourself feast of dishes born from Arthur Hobhouse’s no-dig allotment and polytunnels on the estate. 

The experience has its last outing on December 10 and 11. On Saturday, the fire will be lit to heat up a huge midwinter squash curry, and array of salads alongside mulled High House Fruit Farm apple juice. 

While baker supreme Colleen will have rustled up a few complimentary mince pies to enjoy alongside other light treats from the kitchen on both days. 

The Banqueting Barn is Jason’s homage to the fat of the land. And an extension of The Alde Valley Spring Festival, which he founded in 2009. 

“In early 2000 I coined the phrased the ‘Alde Valley’ for this area in response to my mother’s [the Countess of Cranbrook] work and research into local food,” says Jason, wrapped up warm in woollens, stoking the fire as he prepares our lunch feast of locally-caught sea bass stuffed with lemon and fennel fronds, and slices of Suffolk steak drenched in Fen Farm butter and local honey. 

“I felt strongly there were so many food businesses in this area and I wanted to try and link them to a geographical identity. I started Alde Valley Food Adventures in 2004/05, launching with an exhibition of drawings at Snape Maltings. Paul Thomas, who had the Farm Café came to the opening and I remember seeing him munching on a mushroom dish. He said ‘I love the art, but I REALLY love the food’. That made me think we could do something centered around food and art here.” 

Jason spent time roving around with guests at local restaurants, pubs, meeting producers and chefs before bringing Alde Valley Spring Festival to White House Farm in 2009. It’s an annual event he describes as a coming together of food, art and landscape, with multiple artists, creators and writers having taken up residencies over the years, expressing their vision of this little part of Suffolk. 

“We were able to safely welcome some of them during Covid times, working alone on the farm,” he adds. “And I really feel that the arts have become so embedded in our landscape here. That feels precious. As much as our harvest has been peas or wool from sheep – it's been the work of these writers and artists too.” 

Pieces from residencies, including Melanie Comber, Perienne Christian and Tessa Newcomb can be viewed on December 10 and 11 while enjoying lunch at the barn – which is a bit of a happy accident, says Jason.  

“We had a wedding here for a lovely young couple in June. They didn’t want any risk, just in case, so we reorganised all the barns to create this dance/reception/dining area. It was so wonderful we decided to keep it.” 

‘Harvest’ and ‘community’ are central to Jason’s vision for the barn. “When I was a child growing up in the family home, my mum used to host a harvest supper. That was for everyone working on the farm, and suppliers and contractors. It would be able 30 to 50 people gathering for a wonderful cornucopia of smoked hams, terrines, lovely veg and cakes. Also, we have a sister festival in central Borneo. They have community feasts and I remember going to the villages in 2005 and seeing this amazing food being prepared in 4ft by 6ft pans. One had 80kgs of pork...another 30kgs of chicken. That coming together of people to sit and eat and share really inspired me. 

“I very much want this to be a place of welcome and nature and celebrating local food. Now, around each art launch we have an almost ‘baby’ festival filled with food almost entirely from the farm and from Arthur’s beautiful garden.” 

Menus are largely plant-based, with some seasonal game from the estate when available. While Jason mans the fire, it’s his partner Isobel Sarginson Allen who takes the reigns in the kitchen. A vegan for many years, Isobel is inspired initially by whatever Arthur has available, bringing in touches of Indonesia and the Middle East, with the menu changing every single time. 

“I really love the way she can get so much flavour coming through vegetables,” Jason remarks, bewitched by the flames as he turns a piece of steak. “She is a remarkable cook. And so is Colleen who makes our cakes. Arthur’s produced some incredible carrots which are about 1ft long! Colleen’s been turning them into a very special carrot cake, which we all love here. Everyone has to come and try it!” 

Find out more, including how to get to the farm, at galloper-sands.co.uk or email enquiries@galloper-sands.co.uk 

It will be open from 10am over the weekend. 

Christmas on the farm 

Pick up your natural festive decorations, including bunches of fir, box, ivy and willow stems for £5 each, bunches of mistletoe from £5, and wreath kits (£15). 

During the weekend of December 10 and 11 there is a wreath (£15) and willow star (£5) workshop including complimentary mulled apple juice and spiced squash soup. 

The pop-up shop will be open from 10am to 5pm selling Mercury Hare pottery, bags by Studio Vandertas, Peter Dibble baskets, Eilidh Allan jewellery and more. 

And the Farmyard Bookstore will be open too, with a selection of rural writing.